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Trimming the panic bar to size:
The panic bar beyond the push pad is hollow square tubing. The bar comes from the factory 40" long. To modify this length simply cut the excess tubing off the end of the bar that you do not need. There is an included cap that will go on the end of the panic bar where the end is cut. Cutting can be done with a hack saw and can reduce the length of the bar to 25".
Right or left hand mounting:
With this style bar, there is no top or bottom. Switching sides is simply rotating the bar 180 degrees and mounting it.
Latching and mounting:
This panic bar is surface mount so the panic bar is placed on the rear face of the door. The strike goes on the door frame behind the door, not on the inside of the frame where you may have previously had a handle. On the door if you previously had a handle that will need to be removed. Caps are available for the hole left behind after the handle is removed. Door jamb brackets are also available to cover where the old handle latched to the frame. Mounting bolts are provided however depending on the material the door is made of you may switch to the same diameter in wood screws, self tapping metal screws, or for added strength - sex bolts (sex bolts have a female side on the outside of the door and a male side on the inside of the door and then they join in the middle of the door, Because both faces of the door are used for securing the bar it makes for a very strong hold.)
Dogging:
This panic bar is equipped with Allen key dogging. Dogging is a method of leaving the panic exit bar unlatched for free entry through the door. Allen key dogging is a secure method of unlatching the panic exit bar. Although an Allen key is a common tool it is something most individuals would not have on them. With the alternate method of dogging, knob dogging, anyone can walk up and flip the knob and the panic bar would be unlocked. When the Allen key is inserted and turn the latch on the end of the panic bar is retracted and held retracted until the key is turned back again.
Optional products associated with this bar (purchased separately):
Outside door handle with key release. There are a few different models of the handle. The level handle, the knob handle, and the thumb latch work the same way. The handle will take the place of that cylinder lock. The handle or latch interacts with the panic exit bar the same way as the cylinder lock that was provided with the panic bar did; as a momentary release. The handle/latch are key-lockable so someone can no longer turn the handle or press the thumb release unless they have a key. The key will not disengage the panic bar, only engage or disengage the handle, which then the handle disengages the panic bar. The key in the handle or thumb latch are non-momentary keys.
Surface Mounted Electric Strike. This is another method for releasing the door from outside or a remote location. The electric strike replaces the provided mechanical strike. When the electric strike is not being triggered the panic bar engages it the same as it would a mechanical strike. However when you trigger the electric strike with an access device the door can then be pulled open from the outside. An access device can be a keypad, a card reader, an intercom, a desk push button, a receiver/remote control or even a GSM cell phone receiver. Keep in mind if you purchase the electric strike you will also require a pull handle for the outside of the door and access devices.
Door Closer. There are a couple of variations of door closers with a few different features however the main purpose is the same; to make sure the door stays closed. Because this door will always latch to the strike this is a popular addition to ensure the door stays closed and locked.
Pull handle / Finger Pull. This accessory is to make the cylinder lock that comes with the panic exit bar easier to use. As you turn the key in the cylinder lock to release the panic exit bar you have to pull at the same time. These handles provide something to grab and pull on as you turn the key.
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