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Trimming the panic bar to size:
The bar comes 40" in total length. The bar does not have to span the entire door if the door is a flat surface, the door can be longer than 40". If the bar needs to be shortened this is easily done. The part of the panic exit bar that is past the push pad is hollow tubing. Simply cut the hollow tubing to the length needed and put the cap on the end of the bar. This panic bar can be cut down to 25".
Changing from right or left hand mounting:
To switch the mount, remove the top part of the bar by removing the four screws. Unscrew the flathead screw that is below the spring to disengage the top piece from the panic bar. Loosen the screw the spring is attached to and remove the spring. Engage the spring to the opposite screw, tighten and attach to the opposite hole. Screw the flathead screw on the opposite side to reengage the top piece to the panic bar.
Latching and mounting:
This panic bar is surface mounted. The panic bar will be placed on the rear face of the door. The rods lead to latches at the top and bottom of the door. On the top will be a surface strike, and on the bottom of the door a floor keeper that will allow a drop pin to go into the floor through a hole in the center of the floor keeper. The strike goes on the door frame behind the door, not on the inside of the frame where you may have previously had a handle. If the door has a handle that will need to be removed. Caps are available for the hole left behind after the handle is removed. Door jamb brackets are also available to cover where the old handle latched to the frame. Mounting bolts are provided however depending on the material of the door you may switch to the same diameter in wood screws, self-tapping metal screws, or for added strength - sex bolts. (Sex bolts have a female side on the outside of the door and a male side on the inside of the door and then they join in the middle of the door. Since both faces of the door are used for securing the bar it makes for a secure hold.)
Dogging:
This panic bar is equipped with Allen key dogging. Dogging is a method of leaving the panic exit bar unlatched for free entry through the door. Allen key dogging is a secure method of unlatching the panic exit bar. Although an Allen key is a common tool it is something most individuals would not have on them. With the alternate method of dogging, knob dogging, anyone can walk up and flip the knob and the panic bar would be unlocked. When the Allen key is inserted and turn the latch on the end of the panic bar is retracted and held retracted until the key is turned back again.
Cylinder release:
This panic bar comes with an exterior cylinder for releasing the panic bar from the outside. There is a drop-down option to receive a keyed-alike cylinder for the painted version of this series. Keyed alike would allow multiple panic exit bars to be opened with a single key. If purchased otherwise all panic exit bars will have their own key. The key release from the outside is just a momentary release. The turn of the key does not dog the door, the panic bar is spring-loaded and returns to the locked state when the key is removed.
Optional products associated with this bar (purchased separately):
1000UL Series Panic Exit Bar. This panic bar can be used in unison with the 1000UL Series Panic Exit Bar. This is preferable when dual doors overlap and when wanting to use an electric strike. If your dual doors overlap, using a 1000UL Series Panic Exit Bar will allow you to open both doors when pressing the 1200UL Series push bar since no rods are attached to a floor keeper on the door using the 1000UL Series. The 12000UL Series is not compatible with the electric strike, so if wanting to use an electric strike, for intercoms, keypads, or card readers, a 1000UL Series must be used.
Outside door handle with key release. If you need access from outside you must buy this accessory or the door will only be able to be opened from the inside using the panic bar. The handle is key lockable. If you unlock the door on the outside to operate the handle you must then relock the door for the handle to not open the door. Some keys you can turn, and they are spring-loaded to return to locked position however this is not one of them. The key will not disengage the panic bar, only engage or disengage the handle, which then the handle disengages the panic bar. The keyed lever handle is available in keyed alike.
Surface Mounted Electric Strike. The 12000UL series is not compatible with the electric strike, unless if used in unison with a 1000UL series. The Electric Strike is another method for releasing the door from the outside or a remote location. The electric strike replaces the provided mechanical strike. When the electric strike is not being triggered the panic bar engages. However when you trigger the electric strike with an access device the door can then be pulled open from the outside. An access device can be a keypad, a card reader, an intercom, a desk push button, a receiver/remote control or even a GSM cell phone receiver. Keep in mind if you purchase the electric strike you will also require a pull handle for the outside of the door and access devices.
Door Closer. There are a couple of variations of door closers with a few different features. However, the main purpose is the same; to make sure the door stays closed. Because this door will always latch to the strike this is a popular addition to ensure the door stays closed and locked.
Extended Rods. The rods included in the 1200UL Series Panic Exit Bar are for 7ft doors. These extended rods work for 8ft doors.
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